HB Forecast - 2016 Fashion Key Words #01: 阔丈
时尚配衬新纬度﹣阔丈之流仪
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2016 春夏时装系列早在上月已经陆续开催,在今回 HB Forecast 栏目中,我们将为大家抽丝剥茧,由欧美高端时装舞台到日系一、二线之出品甚至人气 Street Fashion 中,预测今年春夏流行元素之端倪,在配搭与入手上,提供一点指引,各位时装爱好者一同研究吧!
相信大家在 HYPEBEAST 看得最多的裤款莫过于 Jogger Pant,修脚剪裁、束脚之设定,成为展示脚下潮鞋名物之利器,甚至连直脚裤都要「Pin﹣Roll」成为束脚设定,无疑成为街头时装的 Essential。所为物极必反,一、两年前,Hi-Fashion 已经开始大玩 A-Shape 剪裁,阔裤加持,日本街拍中不少潮人亦开始改穿 Loose Fit 配搭方式,可惜在中港台只见女生跟随韩风穿搭阔裤,Nike 袜子加 Sneaker 片地开花,男生们似乎无动于衷。毕竟阔身剪裁配衬门褴相当高,个子矮小或者偏肥实在难以 Carry,分分钟自曝其短,新手上路,尽量避免选择水桶形剪裁,反而 Tapered Cut 和 Cropped Pants 之设定最容易入手。
在选择上,今季的阔丈除了 DIGAWEL、DISCOVERED、FACTOTUM 等日系时装每季之定番外,今季选择特别多,甚至连 THOM BROWNE 的签名式 7 分丈都应为「日和」之主题都换上阔身的剪裁;单以阔度来说,Sasquatchfabrix.和 Needles 属最正宗的示范,前者展示出 A-Shape 剪裁之奥义,后者更兼承了美式复古之氛围;而论配衬性,DIGAWEL、Trove 都是入门级的选择。此外,不少古著牛仔裤或工装都保持著旧有宽阔的剪裁,是阔丈另类的代替品。有兴趣的朋友不妨参考以下各大时装周外型人们的示范吧。