JIL SANDER 于 Pitti Uomo 97 发布 2020 秋冬系列

在新圣母玛利亚教堂中呈现的极简主义。

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Fashion 时装

作为第 97 届 Pitti Uomo 男装展的客座设计师品牌,JIL SANDER 于佛罗伦萨的新圣母玛利亚教堂举办了 2020 秋冬大秀。在续写 JIL SANDER 向来标志性的低调极简主义风格同时,夫妻档创意总监 Luicie 和 Luke Meier 通过多种元素的注入,以及对于手工艺的注重,在橙色康乃馨背景中呈现了又一个极具凝聚力的新系列。

精准的剪裁营造出俐落的线条感,细节上的调整创造了崭新的轮廓。可拆卸的丝绸衣领和双层羊绒翻领柔化西装和大衣的硬朗感,流苏的运用赋予了些许游牧自由气息;机车夹克的比例得到延伸,置于柔软的羊绒大衣之下;重新经过构想、装饰有毛边的 Shetland 羊毛也显得更加轻快。两位设计师对于大自然的热爱在这个系列中仍旧得到体现,高原沙漠花卉和动物被以水彩印花的方式转换到衬衫和大衣的丝绸内里上,以及如点缀在领口的老鹰造型手工银饰。配饰上还有贯穿始终的金属徽章,并与三角形的邮差包、扁平几何手提袋、缀以手工绳结的腰包,以及粗犷的登山靴和军靴构成整体造型。即便糅合了多种元素,但依旧保留了品牌的极简精神,这就是 Luicie 和 Luke Meier 手中的 JIL SANDER 令人惊艳之处。

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