Raf Simons 2018 春夏系列
穿梭在唐人街的「银翼杀手」。
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曼哈顿唐人街天桥下散发着迷幻的霓虹灯光,开场模特身穿黑色橡胶大衣、头戴园丁帽、手持透明雨伞、脚踩高筒雨靴,Raf Simons 从一开始便为 2018 春夏系列奠定了电影基调,而这第二场于纽约举办发布会灵感正是源自导演 Ridley Scott 的经典之作《Blade Runner》。这位比利时设计师在新一季中对过往作品进行回顾的同时又加以重塑,因此他不仅仅再度与英国艺术家 Peter Saville 展开合作,更将 Joy Division 和 New Order 的复古封面图案重新带回。「这是一次关于亚洲与西方文化的碰撞,但从中又夹杂着新浪潮朋克态度。」Simons 向 WWD 说道。而这一点单从穿插始终,印有 New Order 字样的灯笼便可体会得到。宽松且带有破坏细节的 V 领毛衣与箱型剪裁的西装外套重归视线,层次感丰富且带有些许 DIY 意味的造型则仍凸显着 Raf Simons 设计中少不了的年轻叛逆气息。自从接过美国时装屋 Calvin Klein 的首席创意官帅印之后,Raf Simons 显然重心有所偏移,从上一季开始得到评论的两极化更加明显,但亦无碍其设计继续席卷街头。