重视公平贸易的重制设计-Children of the discordance 2017 春夏系列
在买新衣的同时,你所作出的决定将影响全球数以亿计劳工的命运。
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全球服装市场需求甚大,加上网络发展迅速,人们对款式的追求过急,令衣饰品产量过盛,受影响的数以亿计人,不少更为被边缘化的生产者及劳工。而日本设计师志镰英明,则把劳工及生产者的利益、生计一拼考虑。在 2011 年成立品牌 Children of the discordance 以来,致力于提倡「公平贸易」原则的地区及部落,以更公平的贸易条件,在当地生产者中搜集材料及寻求制工。其中志镰英明于如墨西哥萨帕塔及非洲马赛游牧民族,又或者到巴勒斯坦中聘用难民营妇女的布料厂房取材,在这些保留传统文化手艺地区,去进行取材及部分工序,一方面让作品更添复古味道,又一方面照顾当地人物。
结果在 Children of the discordance 的作品上,混合了志镰英明在各地游历的人文体验,运用于设计中。对于过盛生产,近年时装业亦出现不少以「重制」为主题的品牌,采用旧有民族服饰、古老布料来拼搭设计,减少对环境的损耗。所以在 2014 年,志镰英明邀请了艺术家 Naoto Yoshida 合作,扩展其「重制」部分,让 Children of the discordance 的品牌理念不止于劳工福利问题,及扩展至关注全球环境的概念。
到 2017 年春夏季作品中,整体轮廓更见完整。过往数季最为人津津乐道的款式,如 Naoto Yoshida 合作打造的 Patch Denim,将配衬上衣如 Vintage Patch Anorak、Bandana Anarchy Shirt 等,又或是印度拉贾斯坦邦取材布料所制的 Coach Jacket 及 Pullover,把质感度高之面料与古著元素混合,搭出上阔下窄之造型,流露出工艺感的同时不会过于累赘。如此有意思的品牌,下年将会扩展至更多亚洲选物店,有兴趣的朋友,不妨留意 Children of the discordance 的分销点更新。