J.W. Anderson 2016 秋冬系列
Jonathan Anderson 展现童心未泯一面。
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在同性恋约会 APP Grindr 上直播为 Jonathan Anderson 的 2016 秋冬大秀攒足了话题性,与此同时更让业界期待这位英国时尚协会男、女装年度设计师奖项获得者会通过设计语言带给我们什么样的惊喜。当所有高端时尚设计师对快销时尚敬而远之时,Jonathan 此番却逆流而上,或者说是「借力之举」,对 Fast Fashion 中的速度概念进行 DNA 重组,以来呈现此季设计。按照他自己的话来说,这是「Operate in a world of speed」。然而作为 Fast Fashion 之潮日益壮大的得力帮手,发达的社交平台功不可没,想必 Grindr 亦是 Anderson 用来呼应设计主题的媒介。在他眼中,拥有 700 万用户的 Grindr 和 Instagram 并无很大区别。
跨越时空与时间界限的多元元素重构一直是 Jonathan Anderson 设计作品的瞩目标签,其更是在 2016 秋冬系列中得到至极呈现,与此同时注入「卡通」元素,让我们见识到这位才华设计师童心未泯的一面。例如玩具射线枪、Bonzo 卡通狗、蜗牛插画图案出现于 Blazer 夹克、衬衫、Parka 长风衣等款型上。而剪裁与廓形方面,oversize 无疑是中心词,其将设计主题中的活力代码完全激活,亦可理解为 J.W. Anderson 对 Youth Culture 的独到诠释。最后,服饰面料的的选择、搭配更是成为一大亮点,从亮光丝绸、羊毛至皮草的运用,每一 Look 让公众在一种看似混乱的时装语言中追寻到别样的层次感与秩序性。