Martine Rose x #BEENTRILL# 2015 秋冬系列

街头品牌 #BEENTRILL# 的一举一动都牵动著时尚圈的神经，而近日更找来伦敦知名男装设计师 Martine Rose 为其 2015 年秋冬系列出谋划策。新系列将囊括服装、音乐和艺术等多方面，主题方面亦会沿用 Martine 现代都市融合传统轮廓的风格，其中不乏拥有天才 Mark E. Smith 与 Robert Mapplethorpe 式类型的推出，这与其深受伦敦早期狂野派对、光头党嬉皮以及 Sado/Masochism 亚文化的影响不无关系。「我真的想要制造一些美丽而有趣的…我觉得这些应该在事情不对的时候才会发生。」在接受《Dazed & Confused》访问时她如是说，「通过创作该系列产品我能更好地回顾自己曾经的印记。」了解更多的内容敬请阅览下方的采访摘录。

How did you approach this collection?
It was an organic conversation with #BEENTRILL# – we were introduced by Kim Jones, and started speaking about music, and our references and starting points all seemed to be the same. We were looking at the crusty scene, which was a big influence for me for AW 14 – that sort of ‘raver in a field’ silhouette. The collection has that feeling about it, but it feels more polished and very sportswear. It’s a sporty crusty ravey type vibe!

Patches seem to be something that you return to…
Patches are so…unintentional, they aren’t something I try to own or that I try to bring in each season, but it’s a way that I communicate… they are a way of showing your colours. I was a competitive swimmer until I was a teenager, so we had these swimming costumes that were completely covered in badges, almost like an armour – I’m quite obsessed with the idea of achievements. I like things that don’t necessarily fit together, when there’s something a bit jarring. So sometimes if there is a coherence to the look, adding a few badges that just say odd things can throw it off.

It’s interesting that as a designer, you’re so willing to look back into your own archive when there can be so much pressure to create something new.
I think designers need to get the balance right. I think it’s our job to do a little bit of both, to acknowledge the past and at the same time try and communicate it in a new way. I think that the idea that we’re going to do something new is a fantasy really. At the end of the day the trousers have got to have two legs and the top – there are certain things that we have to abide by. I guess I’m a nostalgic person, and it always comes back to influences that I’ve experienced or that feel like a memory to me, but innovation has to be mixed with that.

How did you approach the lookbook?
The style is all really new, I haven’t shot images like these before, because it’s outside. Even though the silhouette feels familiar and the fabrications feel familiar, the whole collaboration feels really new. It was street cast and again, this boy is just beautiful – oddly beautiful. He really captured the feeling of the collection, of a slightly grown out skinhead, raver person.