Highsnobiety 专访时装设计师 Boris Bidjan Saberi

由德国先锋设计师 Boris Bidjan Saberi 创立于去年的支线 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi，凭借著融合了音乐元素与街头文化的独创风格，精湛的制作工艺，实用的穿著功能，以及独特的外形设计，成功在街头时尚领域站稳脚跟。日前著名生活时尚网站 Highsnobiety 便为 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi 打造了一组特辑，并对于 Boris Bidjan Saberi 进行了深入的访谈，探索创立这条支线背后的故事。下面便带来我们的节选内容，完整访谈不妨查看这里。

What is the concept behind the 11 line and what was the reason behind its creation?

11 is a 24/7 lifestyle line which draws inspiration from the essential garments that we all have in our wardrobe. It finds its balance between street references and tailoring skills. We interpret these key shapes with our own vision and concept of style.

The main influence from Boris Bidjan Saberi’s main line comes from a real knowledge of tailoring, which has been achieved over years and gives our designs a different cut and special feel. In that sense we sculpt our garments and analyze the materials in every detail. Everything is thought and conceived with real attention in order to achieve a perfect and long-lasting piece.

Compared to the main line, which is rooted in more organic processes and materials, 11 uses synthetic tech fabrics and more advanced processing methods. What materials do you work with and what benefits and purpose do they serve in the collection?

The main line is definitely about arts and craftsmanship – always digging for ancient techniques and treatments to give an ever more special, essential feel to the garments.

Being a 24/7 lifestyle line, 11 focuses more on technological and industrial innovations. Hyper-functional and long-lasting pieces with specific needs have to be cut in suitable materials. If you want to design a real waterproof raincoat you have to seek out synthetic fabrics, and the textile industry today offers an incredible range of material.

What are some of the innovative processes and experimentation methods you have been using?

Whether it’s for BBS or for 11, we pay strong attention to the finishes of each garment. We reinterpret the material, give it a one of a kind feel, and somehow we make it come alive by caring about all of these details. We develop our own industrial finishes and do a lot of garment dying, printing and embroidery that makes 11 products very unique.

The main line has its own way of playing with graphical elements – it is more about subtleties using cuts, darts, and the fabric’s wefts. It plays around tailoring elements. But we’ve always loved prints, they are a key part of street clothing and 11 is the perfect playground to express those creative wishes.

We love the fact that a print, a logo, or an all-over pattern can affect the way you perceive a shape. We love blurring the borders between cuts and motifs, that’s how we play with them and try to come up with something different.