高级时装设计师起用囚犯参与街头服饰系列制作

Thomas Jacob 曾是一名奢华时尚品牌的设计师,不过最近他却另起炉灶创立了自己的品牌。该系列取名为 Project Pietá,并且主要是以秘鲁监狱的犯人为灵感,而 Jacob

Fashion 时装

Thomas Jacob 曾是一名奢华时尚品牌的设计师,不过最近他却另起炉灶创立了自己的品牌。该系列取名为 Project Pietá,并且主要是以秘鲁监狱的犯人为灵感,而 Jacob 更大胆起用这些犯人,不仅教他们如何制作衣服,还带领他们体验了从设计到生产的全过程。Jacob 希望能够以此向全世界展示,监狱和任何品牌的工作室一样,也是可以制作出高品质时装的。目前 Project Pietá 企划已经生产出众多衣服和鞋履,并且已经发展到了迈阿密和洛杉矶的监狱之中。下面便带来 Jacob 接受《Oyster Magazine》杂志采访的节选内容,而 Project Pietá 全系单品均可经由这里购得。

How did you first hear about San Pedro prison and how did the project first come about?
The project began two years ago. But for a year we just developed samples and prototypes. It was difficult to reach the level I expected in the beginning, so we had to work a lot to reach a high quality level. I didn’t want to make a common brand, making average-quality products. I wanted to show at the world at in theses jails with all our efforts and talent, we could make a high quality work like any other high fashion studio. It all started when I had the opportunity to visit a jail here in Lima with a French friend. I met a lot of wonderful people, warm, open minded and very far from the image you may have of prison inmates here. These people came from underprivileged upbringings and were now idling in prison with nothing to make of their days.

In reality they to learn a skill, to work, to earn money, but they didn’t have any opportunities. There were some unused sewing and knitting machines, just for the intern’s needs. I felt that it was an amazing possibility for them to create something strong. We stayed discussing this for many hours and I felt an incredible energy and motivation that I couldn’t give up on, and so I promised to return soon. I made some designs, I spoke with the prison administration and we began work on the samples.

Thanks to the skills of the inmates (sewing, knitting, embroidering, leather working) the collection represents a very high quality. We work in three prisons now. The women’s prison Santa-Monica (in Chorrillos, south of Lima and the two men’s prisons San Jorge and San Pedro in Lurigancho. This prison is well known because it’s the worst jail of the country, and one of the hardest in the world.

How often do you meet with the prisoners and what was your first meeting with them like?
From the first day, the meeting was incredible. They always have been very warm and cool with me. For two years now, I go to the jails everyday, but with three jails it’s like one or two times a week each. So now we are friends. More than friends, a family I suppose. And with all the people who have been released, there is still friendship.

What’s the ethos or mission statement of the brand?
The goal is to sell more and more clothes in order to produce more and more stuff and in order to work with more inmates and more jails! It’s very important for them to earn money. When you are alone what can you do except die slowly? Working permits you to earn a regular income and you don’t depend from the others to live. For the inmates, it also allows for hope and confidence. And each day of work means another day towards getting out of jail.

 

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