Riccardo Tisci 谈论 Givenchy 模特挑选及个人设计生涯

在最近与 Style.com 的访谈中,Givenchy 创意总监 Riccardo Tisci 谈论了模特在他创作过程中扮演的角色,强调模特们不仅仅提供魅力更激发灵感。此外,Tisci

Fashion 时装

在最近与 Style.com 的访谈中,Givenchy 创意总监 Riccardo Tisci 谈论了模特在他创作过程中扮演的角色,强调模特们不仅仅提供魅力更激发灵感。此外,Tisci 还提及了一些给他留下深刻印象的模特的名字,从 Joan Smalls、Lara Stone 到 Rob Evans、Simon Nessman,Tisci 在为无数「邻家女孩」铺就职业道路。究其原因,他温和地指出,正如创始人 Hubert de Givenchy 所做的那样,他将注意力倾注在发掘模特们的力量、个性以及不可估量的内涵之上,并在个性十足的秀场编排中得到体现。阅读节选并到 Style.com 查看完整访谈。

As a designer, what do you feel the role of a model is?
For some designers, a model is just about someone wearing clothes and a beautiful presentation. For me, models are so much more. Since I was a kid, I’ve been obsessed. I come from Italy, and Italy [was] where it really started, the top-model story. When I was a kid, Gianni Versace created the moment of the top models with Helena Christensen, Linda [Evangelista]…so it was a little bit in my blood.
For me, models mean a lot because they’re not just presenting my collection; they’re really giving it life. I’m deeply bound to that idea. I’ve always been doing casting and I’m constantly looking for new girls. It is not that I want to find a girl, then have her become the girl of the season and drop her. I’m building relationships for years and years. I have my family and gang, which we carry on season after season.
[...]
Givenchy’s casts are always incredibly diverse—is that a deliberate move or something that simply happens organically?
I think we’re all the same, and beauty is something that doesn’t have culture, religion, or color. I opened my second couture show with nine black girls; some of them I’d discovered, some of them were established like Naomi [Campbell] or Liya Kebede. I did it in a very naive way and, in retrospect, a very honest way. I remember all the magazines talking about the casting, and that surprised me. People make such a big deal about using black girls in your casts, but it shouldn’t be a big deal—it should be normal. Your cast should have everything that is related to your world and your aesthetic. It doesn’t matter what their race is, what their gender or sexuality is, you should represent beauty—beauty is beauty.

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